The Cave City of Vardzia is situated
in the European country of Georgia at the juncture of Eastern Europe and
Western Asia. The Cave City has more than 800 years of history, you would be wondering
why such a great place was built in the first place. The words why and how brought
in mind first. In 1185 a woman, “Tamar”, wished to build a monastery by seeing
flowering culture on the throne of Georgia.
This was a first for the country and extremely unusual in the Europe of
the twelfth century.
There was, however, a problem,
when the Mongol empire had been inexorably expanding and little Georgia was
under threat continually. What better an
idea, then, for their fabled Queen to have her monastery carved from solid rock? It looks like it is the ruins of some huge
Tolkien city, Minas Tirith in ruins. Yet
this was not to be the home of dwarves but of monks – and many of them. Desperate
times lead to desperate measures and to help her people avoid the Mongol
onslaught, Tamar commanded that an underground sanctuary be built. The town of Aspindza was selected and the
secret work started under the nearby Erusheli Mountain.
The 25 years old Queen started
the construction and had been on the throne only a year. Nobles tried determinedly
to usurp her position, on grounds of her relative immaturity and of course her
gender but she ruled for 29 years. A
warrior queen she is still revered by many in Georgia. The City of Vardzia
would be a massive construction job now but in the 12th century it was a
gigantic, epic labor one which was fueled by both the adherence to the
Christian faith and the Georgian determination that their lifestyle and culture
should not be destroyed by the invading Mongols. Overall, 13 levels were
constructed with natural caves being enlarged to contain over 6,000 dwelling
places for monks and for those fleeing invaders. The only way to get to this underground
kingdom was via a secret tunnel which started at the adjacent Mtkvari River. On
the outside of the hidden monastery the land of the mountain was very productive.
The monks formed a system of
irrigated terraces that would feed those inside. It is hidden within the
mountain and perhaps the first example of an eco-friendly self-sustainable (in
terms of food and water) structure in Europe, it must have been considered
impregnable. Yet nature had an
unpleasant surprise for the cave city of Vardzia. The city escaped the Mongols
triumphantly. Yet less than a hundred
years after its construction, the great earthquake of 1283 brought devastation
to the country. It was so powerful that
it ruptured the cave system, causing much of it to collapse and cascade down
the side of the Erusheli Mountain. The remnants of the terrace walls on the top
of the mountain, where the mountain simply sheared off and simply dropped to
the ground below, exposing the monastery within.
The event was cataclysmic, and have
seemed like a punishment of God to the residents of the city, maybe retribution
for the pride they had taken in magnificently defending their nation from the
Mongols. However, 2/3 of the hidden city
was destroyed and its unseen intestines were exposed to the world on the side
of the mountain. The monastery, more than simply decimated, did not give
up. It continued until 1551 but was then
attacked and pillaged by the Persian Sash Tahmasp who badly slaughtered the monks. It was the period when Vardzia was finally
abandoned. However, in the 20th century the monastery was revisited
by monks who decided to guard its history and a small group remains there to
this day. It is more of a museum now
than a monastery but still serves as a reminder of the extremes a people will go
to in order to protect their culture as well as the savage vagaries of nature.