Alpamayo is
one of the most conspicuous peaks in the Cordillera Blanca of the Peruvian
Andes. It is named after the river Allpamayu which originates. Alpamayo is remotely located than most other peak sin C. Blanca. It is
one of most stunning ice faces of the Andes as the hike to the BC requires two
to three days. The Cordillera Blanca comprises over 300 major summits and more
than 20 of these rise over 6000 meters. The peak is considered by several to be
the world’s most striking mountain, an ascent of Alpamayo is an achievement
valued and recognized by mountaineers the world over.
The
beautiful peak is eventually climbed first time in 1957 by a German expedition
via the N ridge. However the peak was not in the map of Cordillera Blanca from
1932. But these days, Alpamayo is most famous peak and even elected one of most
beautiful mountain in the world. It is not difficult as that inspires the
climbers, but it is wonderful setting among the everlasting snowcaps of the
Cordilliera Blanca, 6000 meters above sea level. Unluckily, this makes the peak
very widespread and sometime overfull. It can transform a beautiful five hours
climb, when alone, into a nightmare of 15 hours with all the traffic when
crowded.
It is not infrequent to find 10 to 15 parties’
camping at the col, waiting in line for a chance to scratch the face. Alpamayo
is sited in the NE part of the Cordillera Blanca, which means that clouds come
up from the Amazonas Basin more regularly. Believe 1-2 days - week with less impeccable
conditions fog and snowfall during the climbing season. To be honest, if you
want to get to this point, then you require little hard work and solid
mountaineering and ice climbing abilities. Before reaching the well-known
summit face you must approach over 25 kilometers, place two lower camps, and
carry heavy packs filled with climbing equipment and food over 4,000 feet of
moraine, scree, and steep glaciated terrain.
Though
there’re number of climbing routes on the Southwest Face, but the most common
is recognized as the Ferrari or Italian Route. It was well opened in 1975 by a
group of Italian alpinists led by Casimiro Ferrari. It begins at the top of the
highest point of the snow slope where the bergschrund separates the upper face
on the left and then ascends a steep runnel to the summit ridge.