Here legions once marched, sheep now peacefully
graze. A few sections are all that remain of this dividing wall that was
constructed some 1,800 years ago as the demarcation line for the
northwesternmost border of Rome’s mighty empire. Named after Emperor Hadrian
(a.d. 76–138), who ordered its construction, the wall spanned 73 miles across
England, between Bowness-on-Solway on the west coast (beyond Carlisle) and
Wallsend on the east coast (beyond Newcastle), with major forts and smaller
“mile-castles” dotted along its length.
Work was begun in 121
by some 18,000 soldiers and indentured slaves and was abandoned around the year
400 as the Roman Empire crumbled. Today, the wall is Britain’s largest ruin
dating from the Roman era and is one of northern Europe’s most impressive and important
Roman sites. The best-preserved chunk is a 10-mile stretch in Northumberland,
to the east of Carlisle and within striking distance of England’s much-visited
Lake District (see p. 16).
Also, in this area are
some of the region’s finest Roman forts, including Birdoswald, Vindolanda, and
Housesteads, all with attached museums giving a fascinating insight into daily
life on the wall for Roman soldiers. Walk beside the wall for a mile or two or
hike its entire length on the Hadrian’s Wall Path—one of England’s most popular
national trails. Or rent a bike and sample the equally popular Hadrian’s
Cycleway.
South of the ancient
wall sits several modern towns, including Haltwhistle, which claims to be the
geographic midpoint of the country, a fact celebrated by the Centre of Britain
Hotel. Dating from the 15th century, the hotel combines classic and
contemporary style with a friendly welcome and good service. For more history
and greater creature comforts, retreat to the nearby Langley Castle Hotel,
about 7 miles east of Haltwhistle in the village of Langley-on-Tyne.
Built-in 1350 during
the reign of King Edward III, its turreted 7-foot-thick walls and original
medieval stained-glass windows, and spiral staircases enchantingly evoke the
past. It’s a pocket of modern luxury complete with an acclaimed restaurant.
Where: Hadrian’s Wall is between Carlisle and Newcastle, about 250 miles/ 400
km north of London.
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