You would be
imagining this: a fly-in fishing adventure with wilderness solitude, pristine
waters, and trophy-size lake trout and northern pike to complete a
too-good-to-be-true scenario. Unfortunately, the not-so-dreamy component of a
fishing holiday at the remote northern lake has often been the lodge
itself—sometimes no more than a set of weather-beaten cabins that puts the
rough back in roughing it. However, a new generation of Canadian fishing lodges
is set to prove that you don’t need to give up on comfort and fine food as you
fish the lakes of the little-visited Northwest Territories.
Just 20 minutes
north by floatplane from Yellowknife, the territorial capital, Yellow Dog Lodge
is an exemplar of this new breed of backcountry destinations. On Pilot Point,
which sits on a rocky divide between Duncan and Graham Lakes, Yellow Dog
seamlessly blends the features of a high-toned ecotourism resort and a
traditional fishing camp. During the long summer days, guided day hikes take
guests past mossy bogs, across trickling ponds, and through the taiga, the
boreal forest of spruce and fir that covers the rocky barrens.
From canoes and
kayaks, guests can explore the lakeshore and view wildlife—moose, beaver, and
nesting waterfowl all make a home in this aqueous landscape. In winter, when
the lodge will open on special request, the frozen lakes become highways for
snowmobiles, and the silent snow-filled forests invite exploration with
snowshoes and Nordic skis. With zero light pollution, the pulsing, multicolored
aurora borealis puts on a fantastic display in the fall and winter sky. But
fishing remains the focus at Yellow Dog Lodge. Fishing guides will help ensure
even amateurs a chance to catch that big one in the deep, pure crystal-clear
waters of glacier-trenched Duncan Lake.
There’s also
seasonal fly-fishing for Arctic grayling, a colorful trout relative with an
outsize dorsal fin that gives a good, hard fight with lots of high, twisting
jumps. The comforts of Yellow Dog Lodge are the reward for a long
recreation-filled day in the arctic backcountry. Perched above the lake on a
rocky outcrop, the lodge provides snug guest rooms, while private chalets
extend along a pristine waterfront. The lodge’s food is a point of pride and
expression of passion. Owners Kathy and Gordon Gin are excellent hosts and fine
cooks, and lodge meals—served family-style in the cozy dining room or, in warm
weather, on the lakeside patio—are jubilant occasions that combine great food
and convivial conversation.
The wood-fired hot
tub offers anglers and hikers a chance to relax weary muscles before another
perfect day of adventure in the Canadian Arctic. Where: 30 miles/48 km north of
Yellowknife. Tel 403-668-9936; yellow do lodge, double occupancy, includes all
meals, lodging, use of equipment, and round-trip transportation from
Yellowknife. When: closed Oct-May. Best times: Jan–Apr for winter sports;
June–late Sept for fishing; Oct-Mar for northern lights.
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